The Festival You Shouldn't Miss: La Blanca, in Vitoria-Gasteiz

A packed square. Thousands of cigars about to be lit, and just as many bottles of cava ready to pop. And, lowered on a rope from the bell tower of the Church of San Miguel, a countryman with an open umbrella slowly descending over Plaza de la Virgen Blanca.

Celedón flies over Plaza de la Virgen Blanca in Vitoria-Gasteiz, descending from the San Miguel bell tower

It's August 4th in Vitoria-Gasteiz, capital of the province of Álava, in the Basque Country. And that figure floating over the square is Celedón — a character who represents the entire city, dressed in a beret and checked shirt, played since 1957 by a real person suspended on a cable. When he reaches the balcony facing the bell tower, Celedón greets the crowd — locals and visitors alike — with the cry that officially opens the festival: Gora Gasteiz! Gora Celedón! ("Long live Vitoria! Long live Celedón!"). Cigars are lit, cava flows, and La Blanca begins — what many locals affectionately, and without a hint of modesty, call "the best festival in the universe."

Celedón crosses Plaza de la Virgen Blanca in Vitoria-Gasteiz. (Photo: AVG gallery)

What it is and when it happens

The Fiestas de la Virgen Blanca take place every year from August 4th to 9th, honoring the city's patron saint, with roots going back to the 19th century. It's six days of nonstop celebration — and almost everything happening in the streets is free.

Celedón, the star of the show

After his opening "flight," Celedón becomes the festival's roaming main character — you can run into him anywhere in the crowd over the six days. Local tradition holds that touching his beret brings good luck, though in practice getting close enough is nearly impossible given the crowds. The real good luck, locals say, is simply being there to experience it.

The cuadrillas, the water, and the street atmosphere

Brass bands (charangas) accompany the Blusas cuadrillas with music day and night. (Photo: Iñaki Pérez)

After the opening parade, the celebration moves into the Casco Viejo (old town), where a very Vitoria-specific tradition kicks in: residents lean out of their balconies and throw buckets of water over the crowd below, shouting "¡Agua!" ("Water!"). Come prepared to get wet — this isn't an accident, it's a beloved, expected part of the experience.
From here on, the true stars of the festival are the cuadrillas — organized groups of friends, many with decades of history, who dress in checked shirts (the "Blusas") or their female equivalent (the "Neskas"). They're the ones who keep the festival's energy going for six straight days, accompanied by charangas (brass street bands) that play almost nonstop.
The program: music, rural sport, tradition, and a bit of everything
Between August 4th and 9th, Vitoria-Gasteiz offers a program that blends tradition with pure celebration: concerts and open-air dances, traditional Basque rural sports (herri kirolak), Basque pelota, trikitixa (traditional accordion music), street parades, street theatre, and comedy.
The program also includes bullfights, in the same bullfighting tradition shared by many Spanish patron saint festivals — the same family of events that made Pamplona's Running of the Bulls, less than 70 km away, world-famous. It's a subject that draws mixed feelings outside Spain, so anyone who'd rather skip it can simply avoid that part of the schedule without missing out on anything else the festival offers.
Separately, there's one event that tends to confuse foreign visitors: the "toros de fuego" ("fire bulls"). Despite the name, no animals are involved — it's a bull-shaped fireworks frame, carried on the shoulders of a volunteer, that playfully "chases" the crowd through the streets of the city center. It's one of the most anticipated moments for kids and one of the most photographed traditions of the festival.
The Procession of the Lanterns

The Museo de los Faroles (Lantern Museum) in Vitoria-Gasteiz. (Photo: Daniel Llano)

One of the most distinctive events on the program is the Procession of the Lanterns (Rosario de los Faroles), held on the opening night of the festival starting at 10 pm. Since 1895, robed members of the confraternity have carried 271 glass-and-metal lanterns — kept the rest of the year in the city's Lantern Museum — through the streets of the center. The original cardboard lanterns were replaced by the current ones thanks to a public subscription paid entirely by the people of Vitoria themselves — a real measure of how much this city loves its festival.

The finale: fireworks and Celedón's return to the tower

Fireworks close out the Fiestas de la Blanca in Vitoria-Gasteiz. (Photo: Esteban Sánchez)

In the early hours of August 10th, Celedón climbs back up toward the San Miguel bell tower in a farewell tribute, marking the official close of the festival. The city says goodbye with a spectacular fireworks display — and from there, the countdown to next year's La Blanca begins.

Practical information

• Getting there: Vitoria-Gasteiz is well connected by road (AP-1, A-1, A-68) and high-speed rail from Madrid. Foronda Airport is just 10 km from the city center.
• Where to stay: book several months in advance — demand during La Blanca is very high, and the city's hotel capacity, while decent, fills up fast.
• Costs: most street activities are free, including Celedón's descent and the main concerts. At the txosnas (festival food and drink stalls), expect to pay around €2–6.
• Getting around: the Casco Viejo is pedestrianized during the festival — it's best to park on the outskirts or use public transport, which runs extra night services during the celebrations.
• What to bring: clothes you don't mind getting wet (thanks to the balcony water-throwing), comfortable shoes, and — if you want to fully blend in — a checked shirt and a beret.