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Pil pil: how the Basques turned salt cod and olive oil into one of the world's great sauces

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  The simplest and most demanding sauce in Basque cooking has centuries of history behind it In his book  The Basque History of the World , Mark Kurlansky recounts how, in the 10th century, the Vikings were able to undertake long ocean voyages and cross the Atlantic because they stocked their ships with cod dried in the Arctic air. From those intrepid sailors — who had made their way to the banks of the Adour river in search of whales — the Basques learned shipbuilding techniques and, crucially for our story, improved the cod-drying process by adding salt. The difference was enormous. Viking dried fish, Kurlansky tells us, "looked like a piece of balsa wood; to prepare it, the cook broke it apart and chopped it with a hammer." The Basque method, by contrast, allowed the fish to be soaked back to life and made edible again. It was a leap forward that changed not just gastronomy but history itself: it was this salted cod that provisioned the Basque whalers on their extraordina...

In May, Pasaia becomes the most fascinating port in Europe

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For four days, the bay of Pasaia hosts the greatest gathering of traditional vessels on the Basque Coast Poster for the fourth edition of Pasaia Itsas Festibala, designed by artist Roskow. Tucked between San Sebastián and the French border, the small port town of Pasaia holds a secret that most travellers speed past on the motorway: for centuries, it was one of the great hubs of Atlantic seafaring — a place where towering galleons were built and launched into expeditions that crossed oceans and connected the Basque Country with the world. This May, that story comes roaring back to life. From 14 to 17 May 2026, Pasaia hosts the fourth edition of  Pasaia Itsas Festibala  — the International Maritime Festival — and it's shaping up to be the most ambitious gathering yet. Dozens of traditional wooden vessels from across Europe will fill the bay, while the town itself transforms into a living celebration of maritime heritage, both tangible and intangible. When    14–17 May...

Mercado de la Ribera: Bilbao's most iconic market — and the largest covered market in Europe

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It sits on the bank of the Nervión estuary like a ship that never set sail, right next to the Church of San Antón, at the edge of Bilbao's medieval old town. The Mercado de la Ribera is not just a place to shop — it holds a Guinness World Record, seven centuries of history, and some of the best fresh produce in the Basque Country under one roof. Easy to find, impossible to miss The market sits at the end of each of the Siete Calles — the Seven Streets that form the heart of Bilbao's old town. If you're coming from further away, the tram drops you right at the door. No excuses. The old Mercado de la Ribera. Photo: Amigos del Mercado de la Ribera via Facebook Seven centuries of market life The origins of the Ribera market go back to the 14th century, when farmers, livestock traders and fisherwomen from the surrounding villages would gather here to sell their produce in what was then an apparently chaotic open-air market. In the late 19th century a cast iron and glass st...

San Juan de Gaztelugatxe: the most spectacular islet in the Basque Country

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  If there is one place in the Basque Country capable of stopping time, it is San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. A rocky islet connected to the coast by a winding stone causeway, crowned by a centuries-old hermitage 80 metres above the Bay of Biscay. A place of legends, pilgrims and, more recently, Game of Thrones fans arriving from every corner of Europe. San Juan de Gaztelugatxe in Bermeo (Bizkaia) A path that is already part of the experience To reach the hermitage you must climb 241 steps — 231 before renovation works in 2014 — carved into the rock along the causeway that links the islet to the mainland. This is not just a visit, it is a small adventure. And every step is worth it. Stairs of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. Photo: Eduardo Kenji Amorim via Unsplash Dragonstone, in the heart of the Basque Country Game of Thrones fans will recognise it immediately: San Juan de Gaztelugatxe served as the visual inspiration for Dragonstone, the fortress of Daenerys Targaryen. Although filming ...

9 things you probably don't know about San Sebastián's Aquarium

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Tucked into the rocky tip of Monte Urgull, where the Urumea river meets the bay, the Aquarium of Donostia – San Sebastián is one of the Basque Country's best-kept secrets. Most visitors walk straight past it on their way to La Concha beach. A mistake. 1. You'll walk through nearly 2 million litres of ocean The Great Oceanarium wraps around you through a 360-degree glass tunnel suspended in the middle of the water — tropical fish gliding overhead, a one-eyed ocean sunfish staring back at you, and species so disoriented they swim permanently upside down without knowing it. Over 5,000 living creatures share this space with you. Oceanarium. Photo: Aquarium San Sebastián – Donostia via Facebook 2. The stars have names — and a reputation Meet Txuri and Kontxita, two bull sharks who rule the Oceanarium. Bull sharks rank among the most dangerous species on the planet. A fun (if unsettling) fact: their embryos sometimes devour each other in the womb before birth. Txuri and Kontxita,...

Flying to Bilbao this summer? Here's everything you need to know

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  In 2026, more European cities than ever have a direct connection to the Basque Country. We break down where you can fly from, which airlines operate the routes, and what's waiting for you when you land. Bilbao, the Arenal Bridge and the estuary · Photo: Rodrigo Curi Bilbao has spent years shaking off its reputation as "that industrial city in northern Spain" — and it's working. Today it's one of Europe's most compelling destinations, and Loiu airport reflects that: this summer it launches its biggest-ever route network, with direct connections from more than 20 countries. If you're thinking about visiting the Basque Country and wondering whether there's a direct flight from your city, chances are the answer is yes. Or closer than you think. ✦ Bilbao airport: more connected than ever Loiu airport — named after the small town where it sits, about 12 km from the city centre — is operating  67 direct destinations  in 2026, one more than last year. A reco...

Basque Cider Houses: What to Expect at a Sagardotegi Experience

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  Txotx, the first cider pouring of the year. It marks the beginning of the cider season in Gipuzkoa  Photo by Mikel Alonso. If you're visiting the Basque Country between January and April, there's one experience you absolutely cannot miss stepping into a sagardotegi for the cider house season. T he cider-house season, or sagardotegi season, in the province of Gipuzkoa usually begins in mid‑January and starts with a loud “Txotx!”, the call the cider maker uses to invite everyone to taste the cider from each kupela (barrel). Txotx is a Basque word meaning “small stick”, referring to the wooden peg used to seal the barrel once the tasting is over. Over time, however, the word has come to refer to the very first cider pouring of the season, an event that each year is traditionally led by a well‑known public figure. Want to experience a traditional Basque cider house? [Book your table here] This year, 2026, for example, the Basque Pelota National Team has been one of the groups ...