San Juan de Gaztelugatxe: the most spectacular islet in the Basque Country
If there is one place in the Basque Country capable of stopping time, it is San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. A rocky islet connected to the coast by a winding stone causeway, crowned by a centuries-old hermitage 80 metres above the Bay of Biscay. A place of legends, pilgrims and, more recently, Game of Thrones fans arriving from every corner of Europe.
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| San Juan de Gaztelugatxe in Bermeo (Bizkaia) |
A path that is already part of the experience To reach the hermitage you must climb 241 steps — 231 before renovation works in 2014 — carved into the rock along the causeway that links the islet to the mainland. This is not just a visit, it is a small adventure. And every step is worth it.
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| Stairs of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. Photo: Eduardo Kenji Amorim via Unsplash |
Dragonstone, in the heart of the Basque Country Game of Thrones fans will recognise it immediately: San Juan de Gaztelugatxe served as the visual inspiration for Dragonstone, the fortress of Daenerys Targaryen. Although filming did not take place here, the images in the series are so directly inspired by this place that thousands of European travellers visit every year following in the footsteps of their favourite characters. One more reason to come — as if one were needed.
A place with history — and mystery Its origins trace back to the 11th century, though wars, fires and restorations have transformed the building over the centuries. A deliberate fire in 1978 forced a complete reconstruction, faithfully following the original design. A small refuge was also built beside the hermitage to shelter visitors from the harsh Cantabrian weather — and anyone who has made the climb on a windy day will understand exactly why.
Rituals, legends and superstitions San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is a place deeply alive in Basque tradition. The best-known custom invites visitors to ring the hermitage bell three times and make a wish. The fishermen of Bermeo circle the islet in their boats — turning to port and starboard — so that the saint might grant them luck at sea.
The hollows in the steps, known as the footprints of Saint John, are said to have healing powers: placing your feet inside them is believed to cure corns, while leaving a hat, a handkerchief or a txapela on the stone is thought to relieve headaches.
In the caves of the rock, according to local tradition, the Inquisition once imprisoned those accused of witchcraft. The past of this place is as dense as the wind that batters it.
The view from the top After all of that, there is something that no legend or television series can surpass: the panoramic view of the Bay of Biscay from the summit. An endless horizon, vertiginous cliffs and the sound of the sea breaking against the rock. That alone is worth every step of the climb.
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is located in the municipality of Bermeo, in Bizkaia, approximately 35 kilometres from Bilbao. Access is regulated and during high season advance booking is required. Wear comfortable shoes — and if it is a windy day, be prepared.
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