Pil pil: how the Basques turned salt cod and olive oil into one of the world's great sauces
The simplest and most demanding sauce in Basque cooking has centuries of history behind it In his book The Basque History of the World , Mark Kurlansky recounts how, in the 10th century, the Vikings were able to undertake long ocean voyages and cross the Atlantic because they stocked their ships with cod dried in the Arctic air. From those intrepid sailors — who had made their way to the banks of the Adour river in search of whales — the Basques learned shipbuilding techniques and, crucially for our story, improved the cod-drying process by adding salt. The difference was enormous. Viking dried fish, Kurlansky tells us, "looked like a piece of balsa wood; to prepare it, the cook broke it apart and chopped it with a hammer." The Basque method, by contrast, allowed the fish to be soaked back to life and made edible again. It was a leap forward that changed not just gastronomy but history itself: it was this salted cod that provisioned the Basque whalers on their extraordina...